Getting our Exercise in Whangamumu Harbour
Whangamumu Harbour was once the site of an extensive whaling operation. The whales were trapped in huge nets and slaughtered. Heavy chains were then attached to the whales to drag them to the pier where initial cutting up of skin and fat took place. Eventually, most of the body went into various vats where slow cooking rendered the fat. Any remains not used were dumped back in the sea. It was a dirty, smelly, smokey, ugly operation.
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Today, the bay is pristine and beautiful. Left alone, Mother Nature knows how to take care of herself. Foundations and a rusting boiler from the whaling operation can still be seen among the grass and plants that are taking over the site.
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One of the many things we
love about New Zealand is the expansive trail system that has been put
in place and maintained over the years. Both North and South Islands
can be traversed from one end to the other and across in many spots.
Since life on a cruising sailboat is not about real physical exercise,
we are constantly on the lookout for a good hike anywhere we anchor.
That may sound like an easy task, but it is not. Anchoring spots either
off islands or the mainland are not created equally around the cruising
world. Some offer no access to shore, some are private land with “No
trespassing” signs clearly posted. Some are so densely wooded that a
machete would be needed to hike in off the beach, and sometimes we are
on a schedule with no time for a good hike.
Tuesday, February 9th – There’s no pressing schedule this time. We have given ourselves two days here in Whangamumu Harbour to enjoy the serenity of the bay and the hiking trails available on land. From the shore, it is easy to hike up to join a main trail. Whangamumu Harbour is on the coastal trail system that leads out to the Cape Brett Lighthouse. We would love to do that hike, but the time needed for a round trip is more than we can do in one day. Unless we were to backpack in and stay overnight at the hikers’ hut, we could not make it out to the lighthouse and back in one comfortable day from this anchorage.
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The First Mate is keen to hike out to the end of Whangamumu Peninsula, one arm of the bay that shelters this harbor. There is no trail shown on any map we can find, but she insists that there must be one. The Captain is skeptical. We set out. On shore, we meet Catherine and Peter Chataway who have hiked over from a nearby bay. Hailing from Adelaide, Australia, they have been sailing around the world and are on the final leg of their journey. It looks like our ocean paths will cross in the Bay of Islands and, in the months ahead, in Fiji.
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Following the trail up from the beach, the four of us hike into the woods. Reaching the top of the hill above the bay, we follow the well-marked trail.
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Not far down the trail, we encounter a group of Rescue Workers who are on a training exercise. Stopping to chat, The First Mate seizes the opportunity to ask them if they know of a trail that will lead us out to the peninsula. Sure they do. In fact, that is where they had been on their drill. Not far from where we stand, there is a narrow trail that is half-hidden by the brush. They caution us that it is not often used, a bit rugged and may be over grown in spots. No problem for us. We are from Telluride after all! Saying good bye to everyone, we set off into the bush. Narrow the trail is, but not hard to follow. We are delighted to be on a “road less traveled by.”
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Descending out of the woods, we come to a narrow ridge. Both sides drop precipitously to the rock-strewn shores below. Thinking of several friends who suffer from various degrees of acrophobia, The First Mate knows she would not be seeing them along this trail. She herself is not all that happy out there. She doesn’t mind heights, but she sure would like something to hold onto if the need were to arise. A photo shoot is called for! Really? Quick! Done! She cautiously turns about, eager to reach the other side and broader terrain.
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We continue across verdant grassland. Old fences mark what once were pastures.
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The grass is tall, growing well past our knees and almost to our waists in areas. Stepping through the thick growth following the narrow depression marking the old sheep track is more difficult. The First Mate compares it to a continuous, unrelenting stair master. A foot mistakenly placed off the trail sinks deep into the soft growth causing balance to be hard to keep.
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Fortunately, it is not all over-grown pasture. Woods, fields and fantastic views keep us moving onward toward the end of the peninsula.
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We hike until 4:00, but, not yet to the end of the peninsula, we must turn around if we want to get back to Avante before dark. On the return trip, The Captain decides to follow a different route. Cutting across the fields, we descent into thick woods and are soon bush-wracking our way back to the narrow neck we had crossed earlier.
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Finally, we come out into the clear and can see the bay below us. It was a great hike, though the return trek was much more of a workout than either of us expected.
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Wednesday, February 10th – Another good hike is planned. After a breakfast of eggs and rashers, duly fortified, we dingy ashore to the site of the old whaling station. We locate the trail that will take us up from the bay and out to Te Toroa Bay, today’s destination. With stops to take in the occasional view down to Whangamumu Harbour, it will take us about 4 hours roundtrip.
The trail, as expected, is
well-maintained and well-marked. In spots it is quite rugged with many
steep ascents and descents as we follow the coastline.
Trekking down the final descent to the beach at Te Toroa bay, we hear an occasional, deep “woof’ sort of sound. A dog? Out here? Can’t be, and besides the noise is more of a “whoomph” sound. Not really a dog sound at all, but as The Captain is way ahead of The First Mate, she cannot ask him his thoughts on the sound. New Zealand has no predatory creatures so she knows she’s fine.
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It’s a pretty bay we are hiking down toward, and there’s a lovely beach on one side. It’s hot, and a dip in the water would be a welcome treat.
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Opon closer inspection, we decide against a swim. Though this bay is oriented in the same direction as our peaceful Whangamumu Harbour, it is narrow and totally exposed. Lacking any natural protection, it receives the full brunt of the ocean surge. Waves crash onto the shore biting into the lava rock-strewn coast. What an impressive difference!
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The source of the “whoomph” sound is discovered. Somewhere along this shore there is a small blow hole. When the surf hits it in just the right way, air and water explode in that hole making that noise.
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We hike across the sharp edges and ridges of rock marveling at the forces of Nature at work. This is one of those places meant for a good long sit and deep contemplation, and that we do, fully aware of how special it is to be just the two of us out here peacefully alone.
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We return to Avante in the late afternoon. The First Mate presses The Captain into a fishing expedition out toward the entrance to the harbor. She just knows there are snapper waiting out there for their lines. Being a good sport, he unenthusiastically acquiesces. Armed with fishing poles, hooks and squid, of we go. The results?
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Two beautifully snapper for dinner!
Going fishing is not a bad way to relax after a good hike, and freshly caught snapper is not a bad way to end a perfectly wonderful day!