Oh, For A Green Vegetable!
Thursday, June 20th – We have now journeyed far enough south along the eastern coast of Grand Terre to have a wind angle that will allow us to sail out to the Loyalty Islands, which lie about 50nm off the coast. Because we have reefs at each end of the trip, we want sufficient wind so that we can sail and cover the distance quickly. We prefer to go through reefs in daylight, and the shorter days of winter don’t help us any. While we wanted light winds as we came down the coast heading into the prevailing southeast trade winds, our thoughts regarding the wind have changed. Wind we want. In the mid teens would be nice.
0735 – Today’s forecast is for 15 – 20 knot winds from the southeast, so the anchor is weighed, and slowly we wend our way out of reefs encircling Baie de Pain. Then we head across the lagoon toward the outer reef which is over 5nm away. We motor through the outer reef at Passe de Nakety, then raise sails and set our course for Lifou Island. The Captain is delighted. We have 15 – 17 kts from ESE and should be able to sail on a starboard tack at about 9 kts all the way to Lifou, arriving comfortably before dark.
1030 – We spot a sail on the horizon. We have been travailing around Grand Terre for over 3 weeks and have seen only 3 other boats since leaving the Nouméa area. This boat appears to be a catamaran and is on a course from one of the Loyalty Islands back to Grand Terre. While we are watching it, 2 more sails appears following behind. We check our AIS to see if we know any of these boats and are amused to learn that the name of the first boat is 3 Little Birds. With these 3 boats, we have just doubled the number of boats we have seen. It is clear that we are back in the more popular sailing regions.
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At 1645, we were anchored off the coast of Drueulu below the boat ramp and beach that we remembered from our previous visit here in October, 2016.
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There are 4 other boats already here. It is a bit of a shock, but that really is no surprise since the Loyalty Islands are a popular cruiser stop. These islands are upturned limestone atolls. They are mostly low-lying with limestone cliffs running along their coasts and higher escarpments rising inland. All feature white sand beaches that in some cases run for miles as far as the eye can see and clear, ever so beautiful blue water due to the shallow depths over a sand bottom. After weeks of red mountainous terrain and rocky shores difficult to access, we are delighted with the change of scenery.
Friday, June 21st – The forecast for the next few days is dismal. Heavy overcast is supposed to produce rain later in the day. By mid morning, 3 of our companion boats have left for parts unknown. Stopping by the remaining boat, s/v Laylah, on our way to shore, we meet Karen and Peter from Australia. They are part of a rally of boats from Australia. We learn that 2 of the boats that left earlier this morning and all 3 of the boats we saw yesterday are also from that rally. Karen and Peter arrived here the day before and have been ashore. They describe a very nice Coutume visit they had had with the Chief and his family. We have our gifts and are on the way to do the same. Before heading off, we invite them to join us this afternoon on Avante for Sundowners.
All is very quiet ashore. Walking down the main road toward the Chief’s compound, we see no one, though we can hear the voices of children coming from homes set way back from the street. To do La Coutume, one does not just walk up to the Chief’s home and say hello. One must be escorted to the Chief by a member of a tribe belonging to the community. We are in search of such a person, but strolling up someone’s driveway in hopes of finding such a person is also not the thing to do. Stymied, we walk past the Chief’s compound and hope that we’ll find someone on our return.
On the way back, we see a young man walking across the field by the Chief’s compound. He is walking toward us. Perhaps he will be our introductory person. We stop to chat, and though we have a difficult time understanding each other, he does agree to take us to the Chief.
The Chief is a young man probably in his late 30’s or early 40’s. We had expected an older man, but he tells us that his father, the former Chief, had died. Here the position of Chief passes down through the males in the family, though each of the 3 tribes that make up this particular community do have a vote in the matter. We are invited to sit on his porch. Taking off our caps, sunglasses and shoes, as is polite, we take seats on the porch where his wife and several other family members join us. His wife speaks a little English. So between our little French and her little English, we have a pleasant time exchanging information about each other.
It is customary, but not required, that a gift is given in return. The Chief’s wife instructs a young person to go inside for something. She presents us with 2 yams. The First Mate had never seen such whiskered tubers and asks how to best cook them. Just like “patates” she is told. Peel them, chop them and either boil or fry them. Always eager to try something new, The First Mate is delighted.
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The First Mate then asks a question she has wanted to ask ever since starting out on this journey. What is the Kanak name for a flèche faîtière, the carved posts so often seen on top of their conical Case (cahz)? They look at her quizzically. Whatever does she mean? A flèche faîtière is a flèche faîtière. Yes, but that’s a French name. What is the Kanak name? In your own langauge? The Chief’s wife explains that over the years, they have adopted French names for certain things. This is one of them. They do not have any other name for this pole. We are surprised that the Kanak name of such a symbolic totem has been lost in the past. At one time, it must have had a very Kanak name!
As we are leaving, the Chief asks us if we would like to see their ceremonial Case. Yes, of course, we would. A young man is asked to guide us across the compound to the entrance. Seeing her camera, he tells her that she is not allowed to take photos. When she shows her surprise, he relents and says she can take two photos, but it turns out that there really are not any photos to take. We have seen many ceremonial Case who interiors display intricate carvings and woven mats or fabrics. This one is bare and plain. The only thing of note is a small, smokey fire smoldering just inside the doorway. That we have never seen before, but we cannot understand his explanation for its existence.
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Thanking everyone for a fine visit, we head back along the narrower coastal road. There is no doubting the care and pride that this community takes in their surroundings. All is clean, landscaped and well maintained. The comparison between what we see here and what we saw in the decaying area around the little settlement of Poum on the northern end of Grand Terre is extreme. The only difference we can think is that here there is a fledgling tourist industry which does bring money and resources into the area.
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Heading down toward the shore whenever we can, the upturned limestone here has formed a shallow inlet.
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Sitting on deck later that afternoon after Karen and Peter joined us, we enjoy watching the children playing and swimming along the shore. Not realizing how deep it is so close to shore, we are stunned at first when we see a lad do a perfect dive off a limestone ledge into the water a few mere yards off the beach.
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Saturday, June 22nd – Another day of overcast and forecasted rain. In fact, another day has actually been added onto the number of days of rain to expect! Not to be deterred, we head out for another walk hoping to beat the day’s rain. At the southwestern end of the island, the upturned limestone forms steep cliffs with caves located along the edges. Would it be possible to hike out there? We decide to give it a try.
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Once again, we are struck by how clean and orderly everything is here in this settlement. In every direction we look, we can see ceremonial case. All are in good shape. It is as if every family grouping has their own personal case.
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Some have white rock foundations. Others are landscaped prettily.
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A series of small pig pens catches our attention. Walking over to inspect, the pigs are not any fatter than other island pigs we have seen or eaten at various native feasts, but their homes sure are cleaner. Fed predominantly on coconut, these pigs don’t stand a chance of growing into succulent porkers.
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The coastal road we are following turns into a dirt road. We are not concerned about the dirt road, for we know there is no real road out to the cliffs. If we can get there, it will be along paths or trails. That is if we can get there at all. Unfortunately, when our dirt road ends at someone’s driveway with no other pathway in sight, we are stymied. Time to turn around.
About a third of the way back to the boat, a paved road takes off to the right. Wondering whether it would cut through to the main road running inland, we decide to take it. Even though straight ahead down the road we see a formidable limestone wall, we figure that if this road does meet the main road, it must offer a way over or through the rock block.
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It is pleasant walking down this road. A woman sitting under the shade of a palm tree weaving a mat of dried fronds waves back to The First Mate. A neighborhood dog trots out to see if we have anything of interest. When nothing is forthcoming, he returns to his spot in the shade. A man wielding a chain saw doesn’t notice us at all as we pass him by.
Nearing the rock wall, the road makes a sharp right turn. A clearing of brush and vegetation gives us a view up to the wall itself. There is a niche in the wall, where, encased in glass, is a madonna. Painted prettily with plastic flowers displayed, someone is watching over her.
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Our paved road once again ends. This certainly isn’t going to connect with the main road, but still curious about where it does end, we continue on. Walking past planted fields of cassava, we soon find ourselves about to enter someone’s driveway. About face and back to the boat.
Sunday, June 23rd – Another day of overcast and drizzling rain. The First Mate has lost track of how many days like this we have had, and the forecast, which we have begun to think of as a chance throw of the dice, keeps adding on another day of rain each morning. Will it ever stop?
Chepenehe is a small settlement further up the island. It is not a very pretty anchorage, especially under dreary grey skies, but it does have a gas station and a small store. It would be comforting to fill our auxiliary fuel tanks, and some nice green or otherwise colorful vegetables added to the larder would be great. Thus, in the drizzle and the grey, we weigh anchor and motor up the coast.
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Monday, June 24th – We head ashore in the morning and discover that the gas station does not have diesel, but the small grocery, Chez Alice, is larger than we expected. The First Mate eagerly heads inside thinking about, hoping for, green, colorful vegetables.
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She heads right over to the produce section. Viewed from a distance, she thinks a Garden of Eden has opened up before her eyes, but upon closer inspection, its offering is minimal. The only items green or colorful are cabbages and pumpkins. Cabbage she has, but a pumpkin is chosen as well as a few onions, garlic, potatoes and celery. Two oranges complete the fresh food selections.
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The refrigerator and freezer sections offer more. Added to her doll-sized shopping cart are frozen duck breast, a package of lardons, a few fine French cheeses and sausages, butter, and sliced ham. She’s delighted.
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The Captain, wondering the aisles by himself, adds in several items. Topping the cart off are 2 baguettes and a beautiful loaf of bread. Realizing we have found more to buy than ever expected, The Captain heads back to the boat for more cash.
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The First Mate, no longer involved with scanning the aisles, feels this is a great opportunity to try to talk to some of the people around her. She compliments a young mother on her cute little girl. Expecting a pleased response, she receives only a half smile. She then turns to a man stocking shelves who appears to be the owner. His response to her bright bonjour is non-committal. She just doesn’t understand, but feeling somewhat insecure just standing there, she returns to prowling the 3 aisles adding a few more items to her cart.
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Not having added a significant vegetable to her stock, it’s time to try that yam the Chief’s wife had given her. We have tasted several of the island root vegetables over the years. Cassava, taro, breadfruit — none of them have been especially appealing to our palates, but she is willing to give this yam its day in the sun. Washed, peeled and cut in chunks, it is a purple color. That bodes well, she thinks. Color in veggies means vitamins and minerals are present.
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The chunks cook up quickly. Now it is time for a taste. How to describe that taste? Okay, take some very fine sawdust and mix with enough water to hold it together. You may have to add in some flour to increase the stickiness. Form a ball, and microwave just enough to warm it up. Now take a bite. If you can chew this and swallow it, you’ve approximated an island root vegetable. No amount of salt, herbs, spices or butter is going to make this thing palatable! However, her New England upbringing of “waste not, want not” asserts itself. Can these chunks be made somewhat edible? She decides to cut them up into bite-sized morsels and crisp-fry them in butter and garlic. Even if not exactly gourmet, they still must have enough vitamins and minerals to at least qualify as healthy, but will The Captain eat them?
She qualifies the yam as a starch which means she still needs a vegetable of some sort to go with tonight’s lamb chops. She pulls out a cabbage that has been roosting in the bottom of the refrigerator. As cabbage is not a priority on The Captain’s veggie list, it has been held there for dire emergencies. The biggest advantage of cabbage is that it lasts f-o-r-e-v-e-r in the refrigerator. Feeling close to a dire emergency, up it comes. Sliced thinly and with one of her precious carrots, julienned, she sautés this mix in olive oil with some garlic and shallots. Can’t go wrong with garlic and onion. A small amount of soy sauce is added to spice things up. Maybe this will all work.
The lamb chops are delicious. The Captain declares the cabbage/carrot mélange to be good, but the yams don’t get past the first bite. Over board the whole mess goes. Maybe some crab down there will have nothing better to do than gnaw on a chunk for the rest of the evening.
There is nothing to be done about it. There are no green vegetables around to buy. No stores to buy them in, and she certainly cannot grow them. Her stock of vegetables rapidly depleting, The First Mate dreams on about green, colorful, life-giving veggies. Maybe the next store ……
Comment (1)
judy Hall
Now you are going to have to write a cook book …many times I have druled…J.H.