Should Not Be Done

Jun 05, 2019| 2 Comments

Monday, June 3rd – The lagoon, as we proceed north, has widened and deepened enough so that Avante can once again travel inside it. Weighing anchor, we set off under grey skies and with no wind. Motoring again! It all adds up to a bit of a downer.

Proceeding up the lagoon channel, the amount of infrastructure that has gone into supporting the mine workings impresses us yet again. A huge ore loading dock extends out into the water for almost a mile, and a phalanx of piping runs up the mountain from the dock to the mine. There are no ships at the dock or moored anywhere near it. Scanning the shore with our binoculars, looking for activity, all we manage to find moving around are two small trucks. This huge complex appears to be shut down, waiting for the price of nickel to recover. The First Mate feels she would rather see the whole area productively engaged than sitting there looking wasted and dead.

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We also motor by many low-lying islands surrounded by rings of sand. Tempting as they are to stop, we keep on motoring, for we know once we reach the top of Grand Terre, many of these delightful day anchorages await us.

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For now, though, we decide after a week of traveling up the coast, we are going to drop anchor this afternoon and stay put for the next day. Our anchorage is off a beach on the delightful island of Tanle. We are well protected here and, once again, all alone.

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Tuesday, June 4th –They said it could not be done. Well, really, he said it should not be done, he being Richard Cresher, the author of the Rocket Guide, the definitive cruisers’ guide to New Caledonia. His exact words of caution on climbing to the top of Isle Tanle are “be very careful as the rocks are loose, and it would be very easy to return down to the beach with a full on tumbling, screaming landslide.” Words like that are like telling an ornery 3-year old “NO”. Out we go. Up we go.

Was it a difficult climb? Not really, for in elevation, it is not high, though in spots it was steep enough to have us climbing hand over hand. It was the loose stones sliding down dry red earth that were the problem. Each step required careful placement, and a misplaced one would send one of us skittering until firm ground was found. With no path to follow, we often had to bush wrack through the spiky brush causing numerous scratches. “Look! You’re bleeding,” laughed a scornful Captain. “Well, so are you!” responded a not-to-be-put-down First Mate.

Pausing whenever we found a semi-level spot with a view, we admired the landscape around us. Islands upon islands cover the immediate distance below us while sharp-edged mountain ridges rose toward the center of the island. Low growing trees and shrubs, often stunted, covered the ground with parched red earth showing barren where the vegetation stopped. This land would not be loved by either rancher or farmer.

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After a very steep, slippery spot, The First Mate decided it wise to stop, not because the going was so rough, but because she was worried about the slide on the way down. She told The Captain to go ahead. He can collect her on his return.

A minute passes, two, then three. Curiosity and not wanting to miss anything got the better of her. She scrambled on upward, calling out every once in a while to determine the direction he had headed. She made it. Shouldn’t be done, but they did!

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The way down required some scrambling and mountain goat agility, and it was here that those scratching branches served to hold back a sliding fall.

Back safely and feeling pleased with our endeavor, two cold beers sure tasted good. Well-earned they were, too!

    Comments (2)

  1. Georgiann Carroll

    Loved the picture of you on the Slippery Slope. I felt like waving back to you!! The fresh sea food, Yummy!
    Janet Wolinetz has agreed to organize the fun bridge on Wednesday afternoons. I relayed to her that you would be back around the end of July . She is having players sign up one month at a time. I have signed up for all the Weds. in July. Will keep you up to date.
    Hugs,
    Georgiann

    Reply

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