Ah! NewZealand!
Who cannot love New Zealand? If one has not been there, one most certainly wants to go. The Captain and First Mate had traveled the two islands by car on a vacation in 1996. We have seen the major sites and learned of the ancient Maori culture. We have hiked its trails, climbed its glaciers, chased its sheep off village golf courses, and stayed in wonderful Bed and Breakfast homes where visiting with the friendly and hospitable hosts over lengthy breakfasts is part of the charm and interest in seeking out these establishments.
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The one thing we have never done is sailed its shores. From hills above the coast, we had looked down on the Bay of Islands and knew we wanted to sail there — some day, one day — and here we are!
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Wednesday, November 17th – We arrived in New Zealand with a deadline ahead of us, for on December 9th, we are scheduled to return to the States for a 4-month winter break in Telluride. Avante needs to be cleaned up and packed up. It has been two years since we were some place where we could get good boat maintenance done, and Avante has sailed many miles since then. All her many maintenance requirements have to be sourced and scheduled. In between, however, we do plan to spend a few days sailing in the Bay of Islands, for why else are we here? After Avante is pulled from the water and cradled securely on land, we also hope to rent a car for a short tour of the area. With concentrated effort, we hope to fit in everything and have a fun time while doing so.
Back in Vava’u, Tonga, we had heard about the “All Points Rally”. Sponsored by various New Zealand boating suppliers and run by Lyn and John Martin of the Island Cruising Association, this informal rally is for boats coming from sundry points in the South Pacific to the marina in Opua. Activities of marine, cultural and social interests are planned for the many boats arriving at the end of the season. Sounds like fun. It’s free. Nothing to lose. We sign up. By now, we have friends we have met all across the Pacific who will be there, and we are looking forward to seeing all of them. The rally proves to be a fun week-long event with evening parties, barbecues, entertainment and a dynamic group of people excited by their completed passage to New Zealand’s shores. With all the various vendors on site eager to supply assistance, The Captain finds that obtaining the information he needs for Avante’s maintenance and servicing progresses efficiently. Consequently, we are able to fit in a few activities other than boat maintenance and clean up.
We visit the birthplace of modern New Zealand where the various Maori tribes and the British Crown signed the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840 establishing British control over New Zealand. After much Maori tongue wagging, spear thrusting and guttural grunting, we are welcomed into the whare runanga, or meeting house, that was built on the grounds in 1940 to mark the centennial signing of the treaty. Removing our shoes at the front door, we solemnly enter this sacred building taking our seats on long wooden benches in preparation for a theatrical performance put on by the Maori tribe.
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The interior of the building is amazing. Every inch of space is covered with wood carvings and woven mats. Bright painted designs embellish the ceiling. Each carved totem tells the history of a particular Maori tribe, and every color, design and carving has a meaning within the Maori culture.
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A play portraying Maori history leading up to the signing of the Treaty is interwoven with traditional songs and dancing. At the conclusion, a young girl goes around the audience offering the hongi, touching of noses, which symbolically binds the manuhiri, visitor, with the tengata whenua, people of the land.
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We rent a car and tour the area with Marion and David Paul from s/v Kilkea driving through the small towns of Pahia and Kerikeri and south to the port of Wangarei where other sailing friends had decided to stay. The land is lush and green with rolling hills.
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Though much of it appears given over to grazing, we find that the area is known for its vineyards, orchards and vegetable farms. Farmers’ stands dot the roadside reminding The First Mate of our years in New England.
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We discover The Pear Tree Restaurant located on the Kerikeri River Basin where several smaller sailboats are picturesquely moored.
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It soon becomes a favorite restaurant for the 4 of us, and we return whenever we can.
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With 144 islands and with many inlets and peninsulas all begging to be explored, The Bay of Islands is one of New Zealand’s most popular cruising grounds. We are eager to get out in the bay and explore.
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Successful in getting many of the initial details of Avante’s maintenance projects arranged and with the piece of mind that gave us, we depart the marina and set sail for a short tour of the nearby islands and coastline. After a perfect day of sailing, we anchor in a peaceful spot called Oke Bay.
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There are no houses, no lights at night and no noise but the birds and the water gently moving along the sides of the boat. Green hillsides surround us and a beach is waiting for us to walk. If this is what cruising here in the Bay of Islands is going to be like, we are going to love it!
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Under blue sky and warm sun, we enjoy breakfast up on deck. Oke Bay is so inviting that we decide to spend 2 nights here.
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On the day before our return to Opua, we anchor off the historic town of Russell, just across the bay from Opua. Russell used to be called the “Hell Hole of the Pacific” for the rowdy whalers and drunken sailors that once roamed its streets. Today, it is a quiet and picturesque little town. We stroll pass crisp white buildings housing interesting hotels, small restaurants and quaint shops.
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An ancient grandfather-of-a-tree stands between the fretwork porch of the Duke of Marlborough Hotel and the former Russell Police Station.
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Retracing our steps back to Avante, we pause to watch a child poised to dive off the end of the town pier. The late afternoon light catches the scene perfectly.
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The Russell Yacht Club is offering a Sunday night pork roast dinner complete with old-fashioned cracklings. How can The Captain pass that up? We join Johanna and Bill from s/v Visions of Johanna for dinner.
Our short cruise of the Bay of Islands is over. Back in the Opua Marina, we dive into the tasks remaining before Avante is pulled out of the water. Somehow the last minute items are attended to, and we set off for a short 2-day tour of the surrounding area by car.
Driving north up the coast, we detour into the small sea-side town of Mangonui where we enjoy a delicious lunch overlooking the inlet harbor from Doubtless Bay. A solitary fishing pole is wedged into a spot on a short pier. Whose is it? Who is watching it? Suddenly, the chef walks out the front door of the restaurant and saunters over to check his pole. No fish there. Good thing we didn’t order the catch of the day for lunch!
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Continuing across to the west side of the island, we fortuitously arrive at the car ferry just in time to catch a ride across Hokianga Harbour.
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Stopping at the local tourist bureau, The Captain discovers a wonderful luxury hotel for us in Opononi. Its setting overlooking the harbor and the golden sand dunes across the bay is just delightful.
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The next morning, we continue south into the region of the Waipoua Forest, a nationally protected area of the mighty Kauri tree. The Kauri tree ranks right up there with the stalwart Sequoias of California for height and girth. These guys are immense, and some, like Tane Mahuta, God of the Forest, have been around for 2,000 years. Oh, if they could only talk, the history they could tell! Each stopping point has well-maintained trails and walkways to keep people from stepping on the delicate and shallow roots of the Kauri trees.
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The trees are so tall, so immense, that it is hard to take a photo that will show their magnitude. High above us, their green tops stretch for the sunlight.
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The First Mate feels like a Lilliputian next to this giant.
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Returning to Opua, we wrap up the final details and packing, for tomorrow, December 9th, we fly back to the States. The Holidays are upon us. Attempting to switch her mental gears, on the long flight home, The First Mate musters up thoughts of gifts, snow, skis, mountains, entertainment and houseguest schedules. Three weeks ago, we “hit the ground running” when we landed on New Zealand’s shores with a lengthy list of things. In 24 hours, we will do the same when we return to US shores, both with long lists of things to do. Not complaining, no, she is not. She really loves our super active life, but as she mulls all that lays ahead to do, it is nice to think that maybe a quiet, snow-bound day will be found when, cuddled up with a good book, all she has to do is turn the pages and keep the fire stoked.