Back to the Bay of Islands
Here’s another mind over matter issue with which The First Mate must live – or maybe it is more a physics issue which, if that’s the case, means there is no hope for her. The fact is that she likes her body upright. She does not like it swinging around, off balance or in anyway askew. She does not like taking a corner on 2 wheels in a car. She does not like to even watch the Indy 500. She does not like roller coasters. The thought of riding one makes her palms sweat besides the fact that it takes very little wayward movement to make her nauseous. Thus, it requires little imagination to figure out how she is on a sailboat. She likes it level which is not how a sailboat sails. She does not like being at more than a 10° angle on a heeling boat. Her body can build itself up to taking on 15°, but more than that causes a stomach-churning, acid-burning angst. Unreasonable she knows. Paranoid she may be. All 18 tons of Avante with its very heavy 9-foot lead keel is not going to fall over in the water. She knows that, but tell an acrophobic to climb a ladder or an arachnophobic to hold a spider. Neither is going to happen. In other words, she is not The Captain’s dream of a sailing partner, but it’s what he’s got.
Thursday, April 25th – It’s 55nm back to Tutukaka from Port Fitzroy here on Great Barrier Island. That equates to about 8 hours of sailing. Raising anchor at 0830, we are on our way. While still in the shelter of Kaiaraara Bay, we start to raise the main but are foiled by the flukey winds coming over the ridge. Forget that idea. We move out into the more open area of Port Fitzroy, and with the wind flowing unhampered, we raise the main sail. After we go through the passage into Port Abercrombie, the jib is put out, but the winds remain flukey as they swirl through the cuts in the hillsides. Uncomfortable at the helm, The First Mate gladly hands the wheel over to The Captain. After we leave Port Abercrombie and get away from all land mass, the winds steady out at about 15 kts. Autopilot is enabled, and we enjoy a comfortable sail all morning and by noon are passing the Mokohinau Islands. Winds have begun to drop, and by 1230, they are down to 8 – 10 kts. With our speed slowing as a result, we realize that, at this rate, it could be dark when we arrive at the rock-strewn, narrow entrance into Tutukaka. This will never do.
Just at the point of turning on the engine, the winds come to life, and do they ever! 18 – 22 knots and under full sails, we are racing along, often at over 9 knots.
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With so much pressure on the rudder, the autopilot will not hold. The Captain assumes the helm, and for the next 3 hours, he is in his element. It is not often that conditions are such that he can sail Avante like this. We are on the edge. On passage, we would be reefed, reducing the load on the sails, and with autopilot then able to hold, we’d be sailing along briskly, but not as boldly.
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And The First Mate? Wedged into a corner of the cockpit, gritting her teeth, but alert to spring into action if needed, she endures. As if it’s not enough to just watch the water rush by the gunnels, she can’t resist an occasional glance at the inclinometer which confirms what her body already knows. Well over 20° of incline, closing on 30° more often than not, this is not her kind of sailing, but seeing him so involved, so happy, she cannot protest. With The Captain at the helm, she knows the boat is sailing just fine. She may not like it, but she knows.
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What a great sail that was! Yes, she can honestly say that, for it truly was a wonderful sail. Under a brilliant blue sky, with strong, steady winds over an ocean not yet churned up, it was the kind of sail for which every sailor yearns, and she is happy she was able to control her fears and lay low so The Captain could enjoy his boat to the fullest.
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Friday, April 26th – What a difference a day makes! As we motor out of Tutakaka, grey skies hang above us, and the brisk wind of yesterday is gone. All is still, and all is cold, very cold. Bundled up in layers with gloves on her hands, The First Mate is appropriately dressed for a chilly fall day in New Zealand.
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Since the day is so calm, we decide it’s a perfect time to stop in Mimiwhangata Bay – an anchorage described in our guidebook as only good in settled conditions. It’s a very picturesque bay with access to some easy hiking trails. Easy sure sounds good after our Mt. Hobson hikes.
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The Peninsula Loop Walk winds through open pastureland in the Mimiwhangata Coastal Park. What a delightful change from the rugged bush hikes we usually find here in New Zealand!
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Saturday, April 27th – Waking up to a beautiful morning and before continuing up the coast to our next anchorage, we decide to head ashore for a quick hike up the Tuhumoana Lookout Track. On the way to the summit, a viewpoint overlooks the pretty bay where Avante is anchored.
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Leaving the shelter of the bush on the return to the beach, we can feel that the wind has picked up since early morning. We had expected this, but much later this afternoon. The wind is blowing directly ashore which means we will be launching the dinghy into the surf. Our OC Tender handles the rough entry nicely, but we are both wet from the waist on down by the time we climb aboard.
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It is not far to our next anchorage, but we do not want to tow the dinghy. Now with our brand new dinghy davits, it is a breeze to lift the motor up and onto its holder on the side rail of Avante. Protected from the wind at the aft end of the boat, raising the dinghy to the top of the davits is quick and easy. Even The Captain grudgingly admits that, in these winds and bouncing around on the unsettled water, this stowing of dinghy on the new davits was far easier than the struggle it would have been to get the dinghy onto the bow of the boat.
The wind is blowing down the coast and sailing north into it, we have to tack well out to sea. Just at dusk, we drop anchor in Whangamumu, the site of an old whaling station. We have been here many times where ashore the old ruins of the whaling operation can be explored, and there are several interesting hikes up and around the area. This will be one of our last anchorages before we return to the marina to get ready to go to New Caledonia. We hope to spend a day or two here. Unfortunately, the weather turns. With intermittent, chilly rain, we hunker down on the boat for Sunday.
Monday, April 29th – Cape Brett lies between us and the Bay of Islands. The weather forecast predicts fairly strong winds today, and we will be heading right into them as we round the cape. But tomorrow should be worse, and we want to get back to the marina to say good bye to friends who are heading off to Fiji. It’s the kind of day that no sailor really wants to be out in if she can help it. It’s cold and wet out in the cockpit. Dressed in warm layers with rain gear handy, we motor out and turn north. With the wind pretty close to our nose, we are forced into motoring around the cape. Once around, we raise the jib and sail to Albert Channel. When we get within the shelter of the islands, the seas settle down, and though still cold, at least it is not raining. It’s only a short distance now to Opunga Cove where we plan to anchor, but with dark clouds looming in, we know we are in a race to beat the rain. Winds are supposed to be good for us to be anchored in the cove for tonight, but right now, it is better for us to anchor in Pippi Bay across from the cove. Just as we are getting set to anchor, that threatened rain finally catches us. Wiping drops from our eyes, we complete the anchoring, check that all is secure and head below out of the wet. Later in the afternoon, with the anticipated wind shift, we move over to Opunga Cove for a quiet night’s sleep.
Tuesday, April 30th – Back in the marina, we head up to the cafe for lunch with Annette and Ron, our Aussie cruising friends. They are leaving for Fiji tomorrow, but our cruising paths will cross again this October in New Caledonia.
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After lunch, we walk over to the dock where s/v Whistler is berthed. Margie and Monty are also leaving tomorrow. To Fiji they are going as are a lot of other boats, but they also plan to show up in New Caledonia in October. It’s a sad thing to be parting from so many friends, but reassuring to know we’ll be meeting some of them again “down the ocean road”, as The First Mate likes to say.
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Wednesday, May 1st, We also want to get together with Lyn and John, our friends who plan to join us when we sail onto French Polynesia one of these years. They suggest lunch at Omata Vineyards. Great idea! It’s a beautiful, blue sky day. We could not ask for better than to be sitting out on the patio overlooking the vineyards high above the bay. What a superb slice of heaven this spot is!
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With a rustic wood-burning pizza stove, they put together the most interesting pizzas. This is a sharing adventure. We choose 2 pizzas: a Summer Pear and Prosciutto with Blue Cheese and Thyme and a Smoked Chicken and Cranberry with Brie. For starters, a fantastic Seafood and Cheese Platter is ordered. It’s Gourmet Heaven for us gourmands in this slice of heaven spot!
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Thursday, May 16th – A busy two weeks whizzes by with final details for departure. During this period, The Captain makes a quick trip back to the States and flying alone, he is able to use milage. The First Mate just shudders when she sees his itinerary which detours through Australia and includes an horrendous 15-hour flight, the longest even he has ever been on a plane.
Upon his return, we start looking for that sometimes elusive weather window to sail to New Caledonia. To our delight, a rather long one opens. We’re gearing up to leave by Tuesday, May 21st, but as we get closer to that date, with the forecast becoming more dependable, it looks like Saturday, May 18th will work. Can we be ready? Yes, all that needs to be done is to have a diver scrape the barnacles off the bottom. That is scheduled for Friday afternoon. Can we check out with Customs on a Saturday? Yes, at this time of year with so many boats waiting for weather windows and queuing up to leave, they will schedule us for a 9:00 check out this Saturday morning. We’ll be under way by 10:30.
Good to go, and so we go! 900nm to Nouméa, Nouvelle Calédonie.
Comments (4)
Del and Dave
Do you ever spend any time here in Scottsdale? Would love to see you both.
Del
linda adams
Love your blog Sue. Always so conversational and easy to read. Feels like I’m with you as you deal with boat issues, weather, temperatures, meeting friends, etc. Keep them coming. Have a safe sail to Caledonia.. Linda
Georgiann Carroll
What an experience you have had!!! I well remember the flight from LA to New Zealand. My thought was “Am I ever going to have a cup of coffee?”
I am preparing to depart for Telluride May 23rd. Having lunch with the chairman of the Humanities Programs here. Tonight I’ll be saying goodbye to David with dinner here. He is a serious relationship and will be in Telluride around the 2nd week of August. (with my son’s blessing!!!!!)
Looking forward to seeing you this summer.
Georgiann
marie goodwin
the captain sure looks happy at the helm, sailing in the wind! Happy sailing… can’t help being a bit envious.