Hike up Gold Hill
Monday, June 10th – Our plans had been to spend 2 more days cruising around the Belep Islands, but after looking at today’s weather forecast, we decided to do otherwise. We are now as far north as we are going. The trip back down the east coast of Grand Terre is all into the prevailing Trade Winds. It’s a 300nm trip south, and we expect to be motoring against the wind for all of it as we day hop down the island. Thus, with 3 days of fairly light winds predicted, we decided it’s a great time to get started.
Under a bright blue sky with nary a cloud in sight and in gentle headwinds averaging about 9 knots, we motored peacefully south through the Great Northern Lagoon. The lagoon is quite wide at this point, and there are few hazards until we near the islands just off the northern tip of Grand Terre. We are underway for over 4 hours before the winds increase over 10 kts. Fortunately, by then we have less than an hour to go. Our anchorage for the night is quite interesting. The reef extends almost a half mile off the beach near the Pointe de Poingam. We will anchor in a sand lagoon located in the middle of that reef. We motor toward the reef directly into 15 kts of wind, the strongest we have seen all day. As we enter the sand lagoon, we can see the waves breaking on both sides of us. Luckily, the sun is out and behind us. Motoring slowly in and down the middle of the sand lagoon, we drop anchor in 19 feet and call it a day. We are a long way off the beach with a lot of reef in front of us and on each side. At anchor, we note that 34 nautical miles have passed below Avante’s keel today!
It is a beautiful spot! A half-circle of sand-rimmed bay surrounds us. There is a Gite on shore called Poingam. A Gite is a Kanak version of a place to stay. They run the gamut from very primitive accommodations providing nothing more than a roof over one’s head to more upscale with bedding and food. None that we have read about are what one would call 5 Star. This one is supposed to be of the higher level, and even is reported to be receptive to yachties visiting for dinner with advance notice. We see guests walking along on shore, a snorkeler and even someone out on a SUP paddling close to shore.
The First Mate would love to go ashore to explore and maybe even see if they have room for us for dinner, but getting ashore is not easy. The reef is supposed to shallow out to ankle to knee deep for the last quarter mile to the shore. How does one easily get one’s dinghy over that? More importantly, how do we get back to Avante after dinner in the dark? We stay put and read the late afternoon away enjoying the warm and sunny weather and the peace and beauty of the setting.
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Tuesday, June 11th – We only have around 20nm to go today, but eager to beat the winds which tend to increase in the afternoon, anchor is pulled at 0845. Slowly, we retrace our way out of the sand lagoon increasing power as we clear the reefs. Most of the day is spent weaving our way south through channels with reefs on either side of us. Well off to the left is the outer reef separating us from the ocean, and off to our right, is the reef that runs along the shoreline. Scattered in between are islands and other reefs. It is difficult to imagine trying to find our way through this maze without our charts which show the twists and turns of a recommended path through the reefs. The reefs are visible under the bright sun, and there are navigational markers. However, it is reassuring to have our GPS which shows Avante‘s exact location.
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The landscape changes as we proceed south. Gone are the many low lying sand-encircled islands. Rolling hills give way to high, dry, heavily-ridged mountains.
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An anchorage in the Baie de Pam is our destination today. This bay is bordered on one side by Ile Pam, a nature preserve island located at the mouth of the Diahot River. By 1230, we are anchored. It is so nicely warm that we set up our table topside and enjoy a pleasant lunch watching an occasional small fishing launch motor pass in the distance.
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There are supposed to be several trails on Ile Pam. A golden hill on the the island catches our eyes, and we decide that will be our hike for the day. On the mainland side of our anchorage, gold and copper were once mined. No longer in operation, their ruins are visible along the shoreline. We head out to first investigate those mining remains.
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The ruins are more extensive than we thought. There are several concrete and stone buildings and the steel supports of what looks like it could have been a storage facility. Pieces of rusting mining equipment have found their way to the shoreline. It’s the typical mining detritus we are so used to seeing in our mountains of Colorado.
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Motoring across the bay, we pull the dinghy up on a swampy shore on Ile Pam below the golden hill we want to climb. Hiking up through the mangroves, we reach the base of the hill and start up on dryer land and through a grove of trees. Once clear of them, it is high enough for a view out the bay entrance where Avante’s mast can just be seen in the distance
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Further up, a view back across the top of the island is possible. Most of Ile Pam is covered with low-growing trees and shrubs with the exception of this golden hill we are climbing.
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We reach the summit and walk across the ridge line for a view down to the mouth of the Diahot River, New Caledonia’s largest river.
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It is a perfect day. Across the extensive delta, the mountains rising in the distance create an impressive view.
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Although this island is a Nature Preserve where ranching is not likely to be allowed, the golden grass sure looks like good cattle food to us. We know that a huge amount of the interior of Grand Terre is made up of extensive cattle ranches, though we have not yet seen any cattle wondering up there on the hills. As if they knew what we had been talking about them, upon returning to Avante, several white bovines are seen placidly eating their way across the hill above our anchorage.
Comments (2)
Davis Driver
A beautiful day for a hike, indeed!!!
Georgiann Carroll
You are a fabulous photographer! I almost feel I am there with you. Looking forward to your return the end of July. I am working on the Chamber Music and again will be hosting the dinner here. Janet Wolinetz has taken over the Wednesday bridge. If you want to play with the group; it is necessary to write her and tell her that you are available and want to play. Her email is janetwolinetz@gmail.com. Looking forward to seeing you soon.
Hugs,
Georgiann